Herp Heating Product FAQ

Version 1.0

August, 1994

By datamike@home.interaccess.com. (Michael P. Shannon)

Disclaimer: This guide is for informational purposes only! No guarantee
of accuracy is made, nor should one be assumed. All ratings and
recommendations are solely the OPINION of the author. No scientific
testing has been performed. Please E-mail corrections, comments, and
info on new products to: Datamike@Interaccess.Com. All product names
are the property of their respective companies. Use any heating product
at your own risk! Use common sense!
Copyright 1994 Michael P. Shannon
Do not distribute without permission. For permission, please E-mail.
Thanks!

Introduction
Reptiles and amphibians are currently the hottest ŅproductsÓ in the
billion dollar pet market. Manufacturing companies are scrambling to
produce herp related products and pet shops are rapidly increasing
their stock of herps.
Given this youÕd think there would be plenty of great products
available for heating herp enclosures. The truth is directly opposite,
however.
Most of the heating devices on the market today are ill-designed,
expensive, or even downright dangerous. Luckily there are a few ways
you can heat your herpÕs environment safely and inexpensively.

Overview
All herps need heat at some point during the day. Heat not only
provides energy for movement and activity, but provides essential
warmth for digestion. This cannot be overlooked! In addition, heat is
necessary for the immune system to adequately fight off infections.
Reptiles are often referred to as Ņcold bloodedÓ. Technically they
thermoregulate by moving between areas of different temperatures. This
is why a temperature gradient is the best way of providing heat. This
allows for one cool end and one hot end of the enclosure. This way the
animal can move to the area of most comfort. For reptiles, they
generally need to be kept at a minimum of 80” for several hours each
day. This is a very general recommendation as each species has specific
day and nighttime temperature requirements. Amphibians also need heat,
though generally less than reptiles.
As each species has specific temperature requirements, itÕs important
to be aware of these before buying a heating device, and before you
acquire the animal. Check herp books and magazines for specific
husbandry articles and information.
In addition you may wish to check an atlas or other geographical guide
for temperature ranges regarding a specific country from which your
animal is native.
A good thermometer is essential for determining proper temperature.
ZooMed and other companies sell small, stick-on thermometers which
react quickly to changes and are easy to read. Radio Shack also sells a
digital unit which uses a probe for inside/outside temps. Cost is about
$20. Be sure to check temperatures at many different places in the
cage.

Products On The Market

Hot Rocks
Hot rocks, also sold under the trade name ŅSizzle StonesÓ are rock-like
objects with an embedded heat element and an attached electric cord
which plugs into a wall outlet. They range from $10 to $50. Most of
these are unregulated, though a few new models do offer a rheostat (a
cheap dimmer really) type of device to vary the temperature.
These are a particularly poor way to provide heat for herps. If your
herp needs a daytime temperature of 85”, this means that the hot end of
the cage should be 85”, not just a small portion. These rocks also get
extremely hot, and most have Ņhot spotsÓ. Rarely do these rocks heat
evenly over the entire surface. Many, many herps have been severely
burned as a result. Many basking, diurnal herps are used to receiving
their heat from above, from the sun. Due to this, many herps are unable
to tell when their skin is too warm, and are thus susceptible to burns.
These animals will also stay attached to these rocks if the rest of the
cage is too cold. In an environment with only two choices; too cold and
too hot, the herp will invariably choose too hot.
Also related to the hot rock is the hot cave by ZooMed. This is a
rock-like structure which the animal can enter to hide. The walls and
ceiling contain heat elements just like a hot rock. The same
disadvantages which apply to hot rocks, also apply here. Same goes for
the Hot Branch.
Rating: Not Recommended, Don't Use For Any Reason!

Tropic Zone Heat Pads
This is a relatively new product on the herp market. Unfortunately it
really isnÕt any better than anything currently available.
These pads apparently come in two sizes. I say apparently because the
customer service at Tropic Zone leaves much to be desired. More on this
later. The pads cost from $35-$50, which in my opinion, is way too
expensive for a product of this type. Their claim to fame is the fact
that they are internally regulated. The pads always run 20” above
ambient air temperature. But is this really a good thing? IÕd rather be
able to manually adjust the temperature myself, or connect a thermostat
to keep the enclosure at a specific temperature. Keep in mind that the
20” above figure is the surface temperature of the pad, not the herp
cage. The pad also uses a step-down transformer to reduce voltage to 15
volts. Tropic Zone touts this as a safety feature that will prevent
burns and shocks to herps. I say seal the whole pad properly and you
wonÕt have to worry about these problems.The pad itself seems fairly
well constructed, but long-term durability remains a question as these
units are so new.
Along with the facts that these pads are very expensive, and have an
unusual temperature regulation scheme, the tech support is unbelievably
poor. I saw their full page ad in Reptiles magazine in the Spring of
Ō94. The ad listed a toll-free number to call to receive the name of
the dealer nearest to me. I called and got their answering machine. I
left a polite message. No reply as of a day later. So I called and left
another message. I did this four days in a row. On the fourth day I
stated that I was unhappy with the service they provided and if I did
not hear from anyone within a day I would buy a competitors product.
Well, that did get a response. Of course is was four days after my
fourth message! It never ceases to amaze me that companies will spend
thousands of dollars on advertising and then fail to provide a simple
name and address of where the product can be purchased.
Anyway, I did find a retailer who stocked the Tropic Zone pads and had
a chance to give them the once over. I havenÕt used these pads myself.
>From the various Herpetoculturists that I know, IÕve heard opinions
ranging from poor to mediocre.
Rating: Not Recommended

Hot Blocks
Hot Blocks are made by Tetra and consist of a thin (1/2Ó) rubber block
with an embedded heat element. They come in several sizes and range
from 8 to 12 watts.
The main disadvantage here is again the lack of adjustability. These
units also donÕt provide much heat. And again they are rather expensive
at $12-$24. At least they donÕt seem dangerous...
Rating: Not Recommended


Heat Tape
Heat tape comes in rolls and can be purchased in any length. It can
also be easily spliced together. ItÕs generally a clear plastic strip
with a thin heat element sealed inside. There are a few different
brands. This tape is originally designed to heat greenhouse plants or
to prevent pipes from freezing depending on the kind you buy.
The most common heat tape is made by Flex-Watt. It comes in two sizes
(3Ó wide and 11Ó wide) and is sold by the foot. YouÕll also need a clip
set and an electrical hookup to complete the heat tape. If youÕre even
moderately handy, you construct the heat tape in about 5 minutes.
Really. DonÕt be put off by the work involved. It is really quite
simple.
Heat tape has quite a few things going for it. You can buy the size you
need. ItÕs really cheap, a foot sells for between $2-$4 depending on
the width. The connectors and hookup run about $5 per setup. And you
can place it in a variety of positions. Most users run it along the
underside of the enclosure.
To make the most of heat tape youÕll need a dimmer switch or a
thermostat set-up. If youÕre handy you can save some money by wiring in
a switch you buy from your local hardware store. Otherwise you can buy
a no-wiring needed dimmer for about $20. Thermostats designed for
vivariums run anywhere between $40-$200. Check Big Apple Herp (number
below) or the herp magazines.
Heat tape is most appropriate for those who use rack systems or other
small cages.
Rating: Recommended


Light Bulbs
Light bulbs have been used for years to heat herp enclosures and they
still can be used successfully. They work particularly well when used
in combination with other heating products.
The proper way to use light bulbs is in a reflector pointing down from
the top of the cage. Make sure the herps have adequate hide boxes--I am
somewhat concerned at the consequences of very bright lights in herp
enclosure.
What bulbs to use? I use regular white incandescent bulbs for my
geckos, most of which are nocturnal. There is great controversy about
the benefits of the new ŅsunlightÓ bulbs. As I have no way of testing
this bulbs, I am very hesitant to make any recommendations of specific
brands.
Rating: Recommended

Ceramic heat Emitters
If you believe ZooMedÕs promotional rhetoric, ceramic heat emitters are
the greatest thing since vitamin powder and itÕs high time us dullard
Americans got with the program. (ZooMedÕs advertising states ŅThe most
widely used heat source for reptiles in England todayÓ Wow! This from a
country that produces Double Diamond Ale...)
The basic device is a flat ceramic coil with a base that screws into a
light socket. Pearlco also manufactures a ceramic heating that is cone
shaped. These devices come is various wattages depending upon the area
you want to heat. They provide no light; only heat, and theyÕre not
cheap, at least the ZooMed variety isnÕt. They range in price from
$20-$50 depending on wattage with $50 being a 150 watt ZooMed unit.
PearlcoÕs emitters are cheaper. They run about $25 for any wattage.
They can be difficult to find though. Try Big Apple Herp 1 (800)
666-6672.
These devices work rather well if the cage can accommodate the overhead
fixture. DonÕt forget the fixture isnÕt included! The Pearlco model is
better than the ZooMed model as the cone shape tends to radiate more
heat forward. Both units will burn out over time, though they generally
last between 7500-10000 hours. These are great for Iguanas, basking
lizards and arboreal snakes. You can adjust the temperature by using
the correct wattage and varying the distance from the cage. YouÕll
still need a light to provide the proper photoperiod (day/night cycle)
though.
Rating: Recommended

ZooMedÕs Under Tank Heaters (UTH)
Does everything sold by ZooMed suck? No, they do sell a small,
high-range thermometer which works well, though it is expensive at
$3.99.
Anyway, the UTHÕs are thin, adhesive pads with a power cord. The idea
is to stick the pad to the bottom of the cage to provide heat. The pads
come in four sizes, range from 6 to 22 watts, and run at one temp only.
I could almost recommend these pads, as I like the general idea.
However, there is no control of the heat, the construction is rather
flimsy, if you use the adhesive you canÕt place it on another cage, and
the units are very expensive: $22-$50.
There have also been a few reports of these units becoming so hot they
melt plastic and shatter glass. There are two different temperatures of
UTHÕs: Tropical and Temperate.
Rating: Not Recommended

Four PawÕs NatureÕs Heat Pads
Four PawÕs sells three small heating pads which they say are designed
especially for small animals. In appearance they closely resemble the
human heating pads available at any department store. The largest of
these pads is still rather small at 8 1/2 x 11Ó. They offer no
regulation schemes or switches. The largest size provides 22 watts of
heat.
Not a particularly bad idea, though the execution leaves much to be
desired. The pads are expensive, ranging from $22-$30. The small size
and lack of a switch or rheostat is also a disadvantage.
Odd how Four PawÕs can charge four times the price of a human heating
pad for one which is smaller, lacks adjustments, and has half the
heating power. Can you say greed? I knew you could...
Rating: Not Recommended


Human Heating Pads
These are one of the most inexpensive, overlooked and best ways of
heating herp enclosures. Essentially these are the pads youÕll find in
almost every discount store, such as Walmart, KMart, and Venture.
TheyÕre designed for humans for the relief of minor aches and pains.
There are several different models with a variety of brand names. They
range from $7-$20 and generally have a four position switch (off, low,
medium, high) attached to the power cord. Most provide 50 watts of
heating on the high setting. Sunbeam makes an excellent unit which
sells for about $9.
These pads are great because theyÕre cheap, heat evenly, provide a
large surface area, and the temperature can be adjusted via the switch.
TheyÕre fairly large (about 10x18) and can heat a 20 gallon long
aquarium nicely. Larger enclosures can use more than one pad. These
pads are claimed to be waterproof, and they do indeed seem to be
tightly sealed. (you can safely discard the tacky polyester cover) Most
users place them under the herp enclosures, though I see no reason they
couldnÕt be used under sand or similar substrate. These pads do get
very hot though, so be sure your herp isnÕt exposed directly to the
pad.
I use these pads exclusively to breed Leopard Geckos and they work
fantastic. I use large 65 quart Rubbermaid containers, and one heating
pad per enclosure. The pad is placed underneath the containers and keep
the warm end at about 86” at the hot end when the switch is on high. At
night I turn the switch to low which provides a temperature of about
72”.
Disadvantages? Well, long term durability is somewhat suspect as these
pads probably arenÕt designed for round the clock use. IÕve never heard
of one failing, but it certainly is a possibility. Of course for $9 you
can just buy another one.
Rating: Recommended


Summary
Currently I can recommend four products. Which one is best for you
depends on your set-up, as well as the specific animals you maintain.
Please remember to consider safety whenever heating a herp enclosure.

Recommended Products
Heat Tape
Human Heating Pads
Ceramic Heat Emitters
Light Bulbs

Questions and Answers

Q: CanÕt I put a sock over my hot rock to make it safer?
A: Yes, placing a sock over it will disperse the heat somewhat, but
itÕs still a poor way to provide heat. You need to make sure the rest
of the cage is warm enough. The best way to make a hot rock safer is to
cut off the cord.

Q: IÕve used hot rocks for years and theyÕve worked for me. IÕve bred
dozens of herps. Why are you so against them?
A: You didnÕt mention which species you breed, but I can only guess
that they are temperate rather than tropical species. Temperate herps
require much less heat which would explain your success. The fact that
you havenÕt had any burns is testament to your good luck. Could you
pick some lotto numbers for me?

Q: I am trying to breed some tropical frogs and need to heat up the
water portion of my vivarium. What should I use?
A: Depending on the size of the water portion and the temperature you
need to obtain, you can use either heat tape or a human heating pad
underneath the tank, or a submergible aquarium heater such as those
made by Hagen. They come in various sizes ranging from 25-150 watts.